Let yourself be captivated by the mysterious beauty of Setenil de las Bodegas! Nestled beneathimmense rocky overhangs, you’ll be won over by its whitewashed troglodyte houses, flower-filled lanes and bewitching atmosphere.
Here’s our guide to the must-see places in the Andalucia village of Setenil de las Bodegas, with useful tips for planning your visit.
This opinion is completely independent, based on our experiences. We made our own choices, visited the area anonymously, and paid our bills in full.
Is the village of Setenil de las Bodegas worth a visit?
Yes, the village of Setenil de las Bodegas is well worth a visit for its fascinating troglodyte houses carved out of the rock. While we enjoyed the feeling of being transported into a parallel mode, we also love this village for its peaceful atmosphere, flower-filled alleyways and lively cafés.
For us, it’s one of the most beautiful villages around Ronda!
1. Admire the village’s troglodyte architecture
Before exploring the mysterious village of Setenil de las Bodegas, a little history is in order! Although the village is thought to date back over 25,000 years according to excavations carried out in the caves, it was mainly during the period of Moorish domination (8th-15th centuries) that the town prospered. The city was fortified and adorned with a castle (dating back at least to the 12th century), like another strategic point not far from Ronda. Despite its fortifications, the village was repeatedly besieged. Indeed, the name Setenil derives from the Latin septem nihil, meaning “seven times nothing”, in reference to the numerous sieges required to take the town. It finally fell under Christian rule in 1484, after a 15-day siege.
So you can think back on this rich history as you stroll along the winding streets of Setenil de las Bodegas. In addition to the immaculate aesthetics of the village and its houses, it’s important to understand that this choice of dwelling was a strategic one for the inhabitants of yesteryear. Building a house directly into the rock provided a housing solution that was both economical and ecological, protecting residents from the intense summer heat while keeping out the cold in winter. Later, vineyards were introduced, giving rise to the name Setenil de las Bodegas(bodegas meaning wineries). There’s no doubt that you, too, will enjoy taking refuge in one of these restaurants and appreciating the warm atmosphere that emanates from it!
And, if you don’t have a car, most organized tours from Málaga or Sevilla include a visit to the village: see prices and availability.
2. Explore the most beautiful streets beneath the rocks
Calle Cuevas del Sol
At the entrance to Setenil de las Bodegas, the main street welcomes you with a series of restaurants and cafés nestling beneath the imposing rocks.
This street runs alongside the river, over which you can cross the bridge to admire the original architecture from different angles.
Please note, however, that this street is very busy.
Calle Cuevas de la Sombra
This is undoubtedly the most impressive street in the village! Calle Cuevas de la Sombra is literally caught in a vice with the imposing rock. It’s almost as if the houses could bend under the weight of this giant rock.
Calle Jaboneria
Heading towards the castle, you can take Calle Jaboneria, where the mansions are a little higher up. This street may be less impressive than the others, but it’s a testament to the vitality of a village that’s still inhabited. The evocative name Jaboneria, meaning “soap factory”, echoes an ancient market or soap factory that would have flourished in the village.
Calle Herreria
Calle Herreria, one of the oldest streets in the village, probably takes its name from the forges that once resonated here. We loved this thoroughfare for its architectural ingenuity. Indeed, we noticed that the houses hugged the slope of the hill perfectly. Here too, you’ll have to wait a while before you can get a clear shot, as this street is such a magnet for passing tourists!
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3. Enjoy breathtaking views from the watchtowers
Mirador de Calle San Sebastian
This is the easiest viewpoint to reach in the village of Setenil de las Bodegas!
Located on one of the main streets, it opens a window on the soul of Setenil de las Bodegas as soon as you arrive. Enjoy a contemplative break before exploring the beauty of the central streets.
From this vantage point, you’ll be aligned with the upper part of the city.
On the practical side, note that the mirador has a few parking spaces (often taken over), but if you don’t want to stop, you can enjoy the view as in the photo below from the sidewalk.
Mirador del Carmen
This viewpoint is reached after climbing a 93-step staircase (street aligned with Calle Cuevas del Sol). The effort is amply rewarded by a panoramic view over the whole village and a privileged vantage point over part of the cliffs.
We also really appreciated the view over the river. The contrast between the bright green overgrown vegetation, the immaculate white of the houses and the ochre yellow of the rock makes for a harmonious picture.
Calle Ventosilla Alta
Finally, let’s finish off with our favourite viewpoint! From this promontory, the view of the village is breathtaking.
You’ll have a complete view, from the white houses, the imposing rock covering the village, the Torre del Homenaje standing proudly, to the church of La Encarnación overlooking the countryside as far as the eye can see, dotted with olive and pine trees.
A true marvel that allows you to fully appreciate the unique composition of Setenil de las Bodegas, where nature and architecture merge.
Note, however, that the street is quite narrow for driving up, and there are no parking areas. So it’s best to get up there on foot.
4. Visit the Arab castle and its keep
Although Setenil de las Bodegas is best remembered for its emblematic troglodyte houses, there’s one other thing of particular interest: its castle! This medieval fortress, whose origins probably date back to the period of Almohad domination in the 12th century, proudly overlooks the village and its winding river, the Rio Trejo..
Although eroded by time, the remains of Nazari Castle bear witness to its former grandeur. The ruins, including the tower, the water cistern and, in particular, the walls, give an idea of the strategic importance of this once impregnable village.
In addition to this historical aspect, you’ll also appreciate the panoramic view the castle offers from its perch.
- Opening hours: open daily from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
- See the latest news on the official website here
5. Spend the night in the village
After strolling through the lively streets of Setenil de las Bodegas, why not extend your experience by staying overnight?
There’s no doubt that you’ll appreciate the peacefulness of the village in the early hours of the morning!
However, hotel accommodation is limited. Instead, you’ll find bed & breakfasts, inns or apartments for rent.
Find out more about our top-rated accommodations.
WHERE TO STAY IN Ronda
Option 1: In the historic or modern city center
We recommend exploring the attractions on foot:
- Hotel Casa Palacio Villa Zambra – See prices, photos and availability
- Hotel Palacio de Hemingway – See prices, photos and availability
Option 2: In the surrounding countryside
If you prefer nature and peace and quiet, we recommend it:
- Hotel Cortijo La Organic – See photos and availability.
See our complete selection of the best hotels in Ronda
6. Walk the Ruta del Amor route
An original way to visit the village! The city has installed sets of mosaic squares on several of its walls, inscribed with positive messages. You’ll be able to walk around the village and take advantage of these compositions to set the scene. The advantage is that you’re sure to discover the village from top to bottom.
- Opening hours: 24/7
- Price: Free
- You can pick up the map with the various points of interest at the tourist office or download it from this site here
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7. Hiking from the village
Surrounded by green hills and rugged mountains, Setenil de las Bodegas is a true invitation to escape. Hikers and nature lovers will be delighted by the countless trails that criss-cross the Serria de Grazalema, offering breathtaking panoramas. From the village, we spotted several trails such as the Ruta de Molinos hike, which passes by various points of interest: the Molinilla waterfall, the Trejo river and, of course, the Moulin del Batán.
- Opening hours: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, but we advise you to hike early in the morning to avoid the heat.
- Price: Free and bring your own picnic as you won’t find anything on the roads.
- Find out about all the walks starting from Setenil de las Bodegas on the tourist office website here!
8. Explore the village’s heritage
Don’t forget to explore the heritage of Setenil de las Bodegas as you stroll through the village. First, you can admire the 16th-century town hall, with its magnificent wooden ceiling. Next, we recommend you take a look at the religious buildings:
- The Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation, a blend of Mudejar and Gothic styles
- 18th-century Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación
- The Hermitage of Saint Benito and its pretty façade decorated in bright yellow
- The Hermitage of Saint Sebastian, built in the 15th century (a 20-minute walk from downtown)
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Other attractions around Setenil de las Bodegas
Explore other white villages
Did you love visiting the village of Setenil de las Bodegas and want more? Don’t worry, you’ve still got dozens of white villages to visit! While their common feature is the cluster of whitewashed houses, each village has its own unique charm. For nature lovers, we recommend exploring Zahara de la Sierra, with its exceptional hiking trails. History buffs will opt for Arcos de la Frontera, while craft enthusiasts will love Ubrique for its leather goods. Finally, we recommend Grazalema for its magnificent panoramic views.
See our article on the most beautiful villages around Ronda for more inspiration.
Discover Ronda and survey the ruins of Acinipo
Don’t forget to visit the magnificent town of Ronda, perched on its rocky outcrop and whose emblematic Puente Nuevo attracts the crowds.
See our article for a selection of must-do activities in Ronda.
On the same day, you can explore the remains of Acinipo. Just a 15-minute drive from the village of Setenil de las Bodegas, we loved this off-the-beaten-track tour. In fact, this imposing Roman theater (1st century BC) features bleachers that are still visible, bringing to life the atmosphere of the shows and performances of the period. Situated at an altitude of almost 1,000 metres, the archaeological site offers a breathtaking natural setting, with limestone cliffs and lush green valleys as far as the eye can see!
How to get to Setenil de las Bodegas + parking
Where to find Setenil de las Bodegas
- In the Ronda region
- From Malaga: 1h30 hour’s drive
- From Ronda: 20min drive
How to get there
The easiest way to enjoy the village and the surrounding area is to rent a car. There are several car rental companies in major cities such as Malaga and Sevilla.
There are several direct buses from Málaga to Setenil de las Bodegas. by looking here, but you’ll take longer than by car.
Alternatively, if you don’t have a car, the easiest way is to join an organized tour:
- Costa del Sol resorts: see prices and availability
- or major cities such as Sevilla: see prices and availability
Parking in Setenil de las Bodegas
There are several places to park in town, but we don’t recommend this option as the alleyways are really narrow. There are several parking lots outside the village, but the nearest ones are often overcrowded. We recommend Parking Los Canos. Although it takes a few minutes to walk to the center of town, it has the advantage of being safe, covered and you won’t have to queue to get in or out.
Useful tips for visiting Setenil de las Bodegas
How long and when?
Allow 2 hours if you want to stroll around the town, and half a day if you want to take in the views from the belvederes and climb up to the castle.
The village of Setenil de las Bodegas is very popular with tourists all year round.
During the summer months, between April and June, the weather is all the more beautiful, but this is also the time when tourist numbers are at their peak.
We therefore advise you to arrive early in the morning, to enjoy the peace and quiet of the village, or come late in the day to enjoy the sunset from one of the viewpoints.
Tour directions, map and difficulty
There’s no particular way to visit the village, but you can refer to the map below. There are also plenty of signs in the village to help you find your way around.
The charm of Setenil de las Bodegas lies in its labyrinthine character. As you explore, keep in mind that the village layout can sometimes hold surprises. It’s not unusual to have to turn back or take unexpected detours. Stay tuned!
Finally, please note that the floors can be uneven, and many passages have slopes and steps. We recommend good walking shoes for strolling around the village, especially to reach the castle area where you’ll need to climb.
Visiting with children
We didn’t see any specific attractions for children.
They should, however, appreciate the astonishing shapes of the village carved out of the rock, and have fun discovering the secret passages in some of the alleyways.
Restaurants
The village of Setenil de las Bodegas is full of restaurants where you can sample local specialities. Take the time to choose your establishment carefully to avoid tourist traps. We didn’t have time to dine in, but here’s a list of some of the places we spotted during our visit:
- Restaurant El Mirador, for lunch with an incredible view (more info here).
- Restaurante Las Delicias de Loli for its authentic and generous tapas.
Hotels
As mentioned above, you can choose to stay in the village to enjoy its picturesque atmosphere, or stay in one of Ronda’s top hotels.
Looking for a memorable experience? We recommend staying at the Hotel Cortijo LA Experience for a relaxing break in the heart of nature.
More information and photos in our dedicated article!
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